• UNPACK THE RV
  It's usually simpler to unpack and clean before you start the actual winterizing process.   So unpack everything that could freeze or be damaged before you're ready to use the RV again.  Remove camping gear such as bedding, plates, cookware and eating utensils, which probably will become covered with dust between now and next Spring.  If you store them in stackable plastic crates, they'll be easy to move back into the rig next Spring after washing.
  
• Remove all food items, even those that are nonperishable.
• Pack bedding and linens in plastic bags and seal tightly with packing tape.
• Remove the shower curtain, launder it and pack it in a crate with other bathroom items.
• Pack all cleaning items except what you'll need to prepare the RV for storage.
• Remove batteries from smoke alarms, flashlights.
• Be certain both refrigerator and freezer are empty and that the refrigerator is turned off.
  
  
• BATHROOM
  In preparing for storage, the rig should be cleaned section by section.  First, clean areas that can be closed off to foot traffic while the rest of the winterizing is done.   You will need fresh water, so clean the kitchen last.
  
• Wipe down walls and cabinets with cleaner or lemon oil.
• Rinse inside of toilet bowl and loosen waste in black water holding tank using a holding tank rinser tool connected to a water hose.
• Clean toilet bowl with cleanser such as a mixture of Lysol disinfectant and water, Starbrite or Thetford Toilet Bowl Cleaner.
• Pour Gray Water Odor Control into sink; rinse with two or three gallons of water and allow to stand until holding tank is emptied just before storage.
• Clean sink and tub with soft scrub or similar product suitable for the surfaces.
• Clean mirrors, countertops and windows with an all-purpose or glass cleaner.
• Reseal and caulk the bathtub.
• Treat both holding tanks with Drain Valve Lubricant to lubricate drain valves, lines and walls.
• Remove stains from carpet, sprinkle a carpet odor remover and vacuum.
• Place a dehumidifier in bathtub to prevent mildew and mold (if needed in  your area).
  
  
• BEDROOM, LIVING ROOM AND KITCHEN
  
• Wipe down walls, vinyl ceiling and cabinets with cleaner such as pledge.
• If the walls and ceiling are stained with cigarette tar, use a stronger commercial cleaner with ammonia, allow to dry and then use Pledge, etc.
• Clean mirrors, nightstand tops and windows with glass or antifog glass cleaner.
• Remove stains from carpet, then clean carpet and furniture upholstery with foaming cleaner.
• Remove any mildew stains from cushions,  headliners, vinyl or carpet edges with a spray-on product.
• Vacuum the furniture.
• Sprinkle carpet odor remover on carpet, then vacuum.
  
  
• APPLIANCES
  
• Double-check to be sure refrigerator is off.
• Turn off furnace.
• Turn off range / oven pilot lights.
• Turn off water heater.
• Turn off icemaker.
• Do not turn off water pump until after winterizing is complete.
• Unplug appliances such as microwave oven, TV, VCR, radios, fans, toasters.
  

• STORAGE PREPARATIONS
  
• Close exterior openings such as furnace and water heater vents with duct tape to keep out insects.
• Put mothballs or bay leaves in closets, some overhead cabinets and in the storage space under the bed.
• Place rodent bait in a lower cabinet.
• Use foam-type insulation to close any holes into the RV so that mice and insects cannot get in.
• On alternate years, replace wheel bearing grease, or have an RV service center do it.   By completing this job now, the RV is easier to make ready for travel in the Spring.
• On alternate years,  have the automatic transmission fluid and filter replaced.
• Change motorhome's oil and oil filter.
• Check the motorhome's cooling system, perhaps draining and backflushing it if necessary.
• Fill all fuel tanks to prevent condensation - RV, generator, tow car (if stored).
• Oxygenated fuels have a shorter storage life; add gasoline stabilizer such as Sta-bil and follow the instructions.  Diesel tanks should have an algicide added.
• Grease chassis fittings.
• Lubricate wheel pivot points.
• Prepare travel trailer hitch for storage.  Clean and lubricate coupler socket, ball clamp, hitch ball, spring bar trunnions, spring bar sockets.
• Lubricate fifth-wheel hitch's latch plate pivot point with SAE 30 oil; put lithium-base grease on the load-bearing surface of the hitch plate and on pivot points.
  
  
• WATER TANK
  
• Add one-fourth cup of bleach to tank for every 15 gallons of water capacity.
• Fill the tank with fresh water.
• Open faucets to ensure bleach is throughout the system.
• Take the RV on the road so that the bleach solution sloshes around in the tank, then allow the RV to sit half a day or overnight.
• Flush and drain the tank and water lines a couple of times with clean water, perhaps adding  half a cup of baking soda mixed with a gallon of water and waiting half a day before final flushing.

• WINTERIZING THE ROOF
  While you're waiting for the water tank to be refreshed, you can begin work on preparing the RV's roof for winter.
  
• Wash the roof thoroughly with soap and water or a commercial cleaner.
• Examine the roof closely for damage that could cause leaks.  Seal with products such as epoxy aluminum putty stick, silicone sealant, quick-set epoxy or adhesive patching cement.
• Remove old, cracked caulking from around joints, holding tanks, refrigerator vents, TV antenna, air vents and air conditioners and replace with fresh caulk, silicone rubber sealant or silicone sealant.
• Using a stuff bristle brush, apply a coat of roof weatherproofing, such as Kool Seal.
• For RVs with rubber roofs, seamless rubber roofing sheets can be purchased from RV supply outlets if needed.  Installation kit includes roofing, waterbased adhesive, butyl tape, tubes of lap sealant and instructions for installation.
  
  
• WINTERIZING THE WATER SYSTEM
  If you travel by RV during the winter, you may store your RV temporarily without winterizing the water system.  In order to prevent freeze-ups, leave your furnace operating on low, making sure the electric line is plugged into shore power and that the unit has plenty of LP-gas.  You should keep the water heater operating.  You can also use electric heaters to keep the interior temperatures above freezing.  Don't use this method for storing the RV, however, because failure of the furnace or an electrical outage could result in freeze-up of the water lines, water tank and water heater.
  
  Typically, you have two winterizing choices:  you can protect your water system with anti-freeze or blow out the lines with a heavy-duty air compressor.  In either case, the first few steps are the same.  (Please note that you should know these steps, especially if you hire someone else to do it for you.)
  
• Have your RV as level as possible.
• Remove the water heater drain plug and, with the water pump operating, drain the water heater tank.
• Drain all water out of the hot water lines by opening the hot water faucets. (Be sure heater has been turned off for several hours, so you won't scald yourself.)
• Drain the water tank, usually by opening a valve beneath the tank itself.  Check your owner's manual for location.
• Drain water lines by opening in-line valves.  They are usually located under the sink, under the bed or in floor-level hallway storage compartments.
• Open the cold-water faucets with the water pump still operating.
• Either blow out the lines with an air compressor or winterize with non-toxic RV anti-freeze.
• If you do not have a water heater bypass kit, you should buy one and install it.  A kit costs less than the several gallons of anti-freeze that will be needed if you do not have a kit.  Follow the kit's directions to pump anti-freeze into the water lines.
• Close the water tank valve, make sure the water pump is turned on and open both faucets of each sink until red anti-freeze flows out.
• Flush the toilet until water running through it is red.
• Shut off the water pump.
  
  
• FINAL MEASURES
  
• If your RV has exposed LP gas tanks, repaint them with Krylon propane tank paint, available in spray cans for one-coat coverage.
• Treat motorhome windshield wipers with 303 Wiper Treatment for longer life and to prevent ice from sticking to them.
• Replace damaged clearance light lenses, taillight lenses and burned out bulbs.
• If you have an awning, wash it with a concentrated, heavy-duty awning cleaner.
• Using a spray-on applicator, use a commercial black-streak remover to clean exterior sidewalls.
• Wash the whole RV with soap and water or a commercial cleaner.  If not storing under cover, apply a product with an ultraviolet (UV) inhibitor.
• Empty the RV's holding tanks.
• Turn off LP-gas tank valves.
• Bleed off LP-gas from lines by match-lighting one burner of the cooking range.
• Park your RV on concrete or wood planks - not directly on the ground.
• To protect tires, you may wish to jack the unit up and use jack stands underneath the frame rails to get the tires off the ground.  Although this step is not necessary, having the tires off the ground can prevent damage in the event the tire goes flat.
• Protect tire sidewalls from the sun by covering them with fabric, or placing sheets of plastic, wood or metal against them.  A coating of a protectant, such as 303, will  help protect the sidewalls from cracking.
• Place aluminum foil or other sunlight blocker in windows to avoid discoloring or bleaching interior fabrics.
• Add a few ounces of non-toxic RV anti-freeze to the drains of the kitchen and bathroom sinks.
• Prop open the refrigerator / freezer doors to prevent mold and odors, and place an open, medium-size box of baking soda in the freezer and main refrigerator compartments.
• Avoid using plastic tarps that trap moisture.
  
  
• MAINTENANCE PROGRAM
• Compressors, engines and motors deteriorate when not in use.  Operate your generator, roof-mounted air conditioners, and motorhome engine for 30 minutes each month.   Do not start the engine unless you can let it run for at least a 30-minute period.   Less than that time will not allow for a compete warm-up, and can be worse than not running it at all.  At the same time, turn on your dash air conditioner, if you have one, and run it for 10-15 minutes.  This will keep the belts and seals flexible and keep the working parts of the compressor oiled.  Run the heater fan for a few minutes.

Pat yourself on the back for a job well done.  And remember, you don't have to do this all in one day.  And, next Spring, you'll be ready for a new travel season with a minimum of preparation.